La Quintana, Loja

Menu del día: No
Closed: Sundays
We like: Pimientos Rebozados, Pulpo a la Gallega
Value for €: *****

If only there were more bars like this in Andalucia! When you find one, its really worth remembering where it is...

La Quintana is situated unobtrusively on a corner near some steps and not far from the town hall (Palacio de Narvaez) in Loja's old town. What makes it special is that it offers a menu of tapas on the wall - a selection of the day - for you to choose from. When you order a drink, Emilio will serve it, tilt a jaw almost imperceptibility towards the wall menu and say, "tapa?".

If you come face to face with Juan (Emilio´s father who loves dogs, who will wave you in if you hesitate in the entrance with your panting mutt), he may not say anything at all, being a rather silent sort of fellow and just look on with his sad eyes and await your decision before shuffling away to the kitchen to order it.

So as you enter this very maroon and yellow bar remember to scan the wall for the menu and note down a few veggie options, pimientos rebozados is one of our favourites as well as pulpo a la gallega or berenjenas fritas con huevo de codorniz (see photo).

And whilst supping and munching, take a look at the old photos on the wall of past eras in the towns history. If you stroll over to where the loo´s are, you will see an old photo above the door on the right of the original Quintana bar that once existede further down the road,when Emilio was just a twinkling in the eye of his father.

Oh, and if you should arrive early in the morning, Emilio does one of the best tostada con tomate we have ever had in any bar in any part of Spain. The secret? Maybe its the application of his specially garlicky oil before the tomato but this is just my guess as its difficult to see when he has his back to you, and Emilio has a rather large back.

La Quintana also has a selection of food gifts for the folks back home - choose from a variety of wines, preserves such as jars of lucious peaches or tuna steaks in almond sauce (ventresca de atún en salsa de almendras) as well as local olives and honey.

Cafe Bar Quintana
Carrera de San Agustín, 14
18300 Loja
Tel: 958 32 11 38

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La Terraza del Coliseo

Evenings June-Sept only
Closed: Tuesdays
Specialities: Pipirrana
Value for €: *****

A wonderful, plant-filled oasis in the heart of Loja during the stifling inland July and August evenings, La Terraza del Coliseo is a summer terrace bar situated in the middle of the largest Carmen in the province.

A cool and refreshing alternative to most of the cramped and smokey bars in town, the friendly owner, Antonio, makes a point of serving up excellent tapas and will happily give you a vegetarian alterntive if you ask. (Watch out for the croquetas - they've got ham in them!) Recognise Antonio by his characteristic greeting: "How are you my friend?" but expect to practice some Spanish, especially with Luis the amicable waiter and much overworked employee

Alongside the Carmen sits the old theatre, built in the 30's but unused for over a decade now. If you catch Antonio in a moment away from the BBQ or Luis away form serving multiple tables, ask to have a look inside and they will happily show you round an authentic part of the town's history.

To find this hidden gem, walk down to the post office. As you approach take the left turn and then the first alley on your right, opposite the Peña flamenco. There is a concealed door at the end of this short alley.

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